Outdoor Writers Association of America, Conference 2008, Bismarck, N.D.

North Dakota, Legendary!

Scenic wonders abound here. From the lush
farmlands of the Red River Valley to the rolling
hills of central North Dakota to the ruggedly
beautiful Badlands of the west, travelers are
treated to sites not seen anywhere else.
Photo by Marc Muench.

North Dakota welcomes outdoor enthusiasts with state and national parks, lakes and rivers, prairies and Badlands. Whatever your definition of adventure is, you will find it in North Dakota.

The Lewis & Clark Corps of Discovery, one of the greatest American adventures, spent more consecutive days at Fort Mandan in North Dakota than any other place on the expedition. The explorers followed the Missouri River, and wintered near present-day Washburn, N.D. Today, nearly 200 years later, you can see the same landscape, including a section of the Missouri River in North Dakota unchanged since the time of Lewis and Clark.

Experience the adventure of North Dakota yourself. Exhilarate with mountain bikers on narrow Badlands trails. Revel in soul-baring space on national grasslands. Unwind while canoeing or riding horseback. Rack up points on a buck. Wrestle with walleye or northern pike on waters crowded with fish, not people. North Dakota is fair game for outdoor enthusiasts.

Mountain Biking and Hiking

North Dakota has many opportunities in state parks and forests for outdoor exploration. Lesser-known trails abound throughout the state, assuring an enjoyable hike or ride no matter where you are in North Dakota.

On par with the mountain biking trails of Moab, Utah, the Maah Daah Hey Trail was designated by the IMBA as an “Epic Ride” in 2001 and Sports Illustrated Women magazine named it to its “Top 18 Hot Spots.” Crossing the Badlands, almost 100 miles of trail connect the north and south units of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. The Maah Daah Hey also serves as a hiking and horseback riding trail. Maah Daah Hey is a Mandan name that means “grandfatherly” or “been here a long time,” and honors this American Indian tribe that has lived in western North Dakota for more than 500 years.

North Dakota holds its own with nationally recognized trails. Lake Sakakawea State Park (in north-central North Dakota) is a trailhead for the North Country Scenic Trail, a hiking trail that will eventually stretch 4,000 miles and link seven states: North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, Ohio, Pennsylvania and New York. About 1,600 miles of the trail have been marked so far. Visit www.northcountrytrail.org and www.nps.gov/noco.

Whether you are looking to hike in the rustic backcountry or for a full-service marina with guide services, state parks along Lake Sakakawea fit the bill. Cross Ranch State Park (near Washburn) has an extensive trail system and you can explore its dedicated nature preserve with mixed grass prairie, river bottom forests and woody draws.

Lesser Known Trails

Road Cycling

North Dakota has many scenic opportunities to get out and see the world atop your two-wheel vehicle. Ride in our open, clean air and gasp at the sights, which include rugged Badlands, rolling hills and spacious prairie and stream crossings. With low traffic and excellent country roads, North Dakota is full of great cross-country bike trips.

CANDISC

Cycling Around North Dakota In Sakakawea Country is a 400-mile, week-long tour (not race) through some of the best scenery North Dakota has to offer. Held each summer during the first week in August and limited to the first 500 cyclists who sign up, it is for cyclists of all abilities from serious to family. Riders start at Fort Stevenson State Park near Garrison, travel between 50 and 100 miles a day, and spend each evening at a state or city park.

Lewis and Clark Bicycle Trail

The Adventure Cycling Association of Missoula, Mont., created the Lewis and Clark Bicycle Trail and publishes a comprehensive set of maps of cycling routes, historic sites, campgrounds and other important factors for cyclists traveling the state. The trail passes a number of historically vivid attractions where Lewis and Clark left their mark. These sites include Double Ditch Indian Village, Fort Mandan Historic Site and Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site.

Horseback Riding

Sheyenne National Grassland near Lisbon, N.D., is one of the last pieces of undisturbed tallgrass prairie. The grassland is 70,000 acres of public property with rare butterflies and prairie orchids. One of the largest populations of the western prairie white-fringed orchid (a threatened species) known to exist in the country can be found here. About 25 miles of the National North Country Scenic Trail cross the grassland. Visit www.fs.fed.us/r1/dakotaprairie.

The Maah Daah Hey Trail is almost 100 miles of challenging trail open to hiking, horseback riding and mountain biking. The trail crosses the rugged North Dakota Badlands through Theodore Roosevelt National Park and the Little Missouri National Grasslands. Visit www.fs.fed.us/r1/dakotaprairie/mdhtl.htm.

There are several state parks throughout North Dakota that provide excellent terrain as well as breathtaking views while riding atop a horse. At the 6,000-acre Little Missouri State Park, over 25 miles of the trails crisscross the Badlands terrain, most of which is accessible only on horseback or foot. The park provides corrals for those bringing in their own mounts. Guided tours and horse rentals are available. Cross Ranch State Park has an extensive trail system and you can explore its dedicated nature preserve where mixed grass prairie, river bottom forests and woody draws can be seen. Nestled in the scenic Turtle Mountains, Lake Metigoshe State Park is one of the most popular year-round vacation spots in North Dakota. The rolling hills, aspen forests and small lakes provide a great natural setting for horseback riding and it attracts nature lovers to the area. Visit www.ndparks.com.

Golfing

North Dakota has 105 nine- and 18-hole golf courses, more per capita than any other state. Golf Digest’s November 2002 issue includes a feature on “The Best Little Golf Town in America.” Bismarck ranked No. 29, Grand Forks No. 71 and Fargo No. 87 of the 314 cities included in the survey.

Bully Pulpit Golf Course, a new 18-hole golf course three miles south of Medora opened in 2004. Set in the dramatic North Dakota Badlands landscape, the course features five different tees, ranging in length from a comfortable 5,000 total yards from the forward tees to a challenging 7,300 yards at the tips. Visit www.medora.org/today/golf.asp.

King’s Walk, Grand Forks, is a new Arnold Palmer design, laid out in a natural prairie setting that recreates the atmosphere found at the great links courses of Scotland and Ireland. Visit www.kingswalk.org.

Located near Williston along Lake Sakakawea, The Links of North Dakota was designed by Steven Kay. It is ranked as the No. 1 course in North Dakota and has received numerous other rankings, including being ranked 57th in Golfweek’s list of “America’s 100 Best Modern Courses” in 2003; ranked No. 85 in Golf World’s 2002 “Best Golf Courses,” and a 4½-star ranking from Golf Digest’s “Places to Play” in 2000-2003. Visit www.redmike.com.

Bismarck’s Hawktree is a new 18-hole course designed by James Engh that takes advantage of natural watering holes and rolling hills. In 2004, Golfweek ranks Hawktree No. 61 on its list of “America’s Best Modern Courses.” Hawktree is ranked No. 19 among Golf Digest’s “100 greatest public courses.” Hawktree was also ranked No. 2 among Golf Digest's “Best New Courses” in 2001. Visit www.hawktree.com.

For a unique, historic twist, golfers can follow the Lewis & Clark Trail through North Dakota. The golf trail retraces the route of the 19th century explorers along the Missouri River, identifying 21 golf courses near the trail. Visit www.lewisandclarkgolftrail.com.

Geocaching

It’s a cross between hiking, treasure hunting and a computer game. It’s also a perfect marriage between computer geeks and rugged outdoors types that is being played by families, couples and singles of every age and gender. Geocaches have been placed along the Lewis & Clark Trail at Fort Mandan, Cross Ranch State Park and Cross Ranch Nature Preserve. The sites have been registered at www.geocaching.com, which is the official Web site that tells all about the sport of geocaching and specific geocache sites. Geocaching is a high-tech treasure hunt, where players use the Global Positioning System to find caches of trinkets hidden anywhere on the planet. The game goes 24-hours per day, every day, just about anywhere in the world. Players log on to the Internet at www.geocaching.com, where they get a set of map coordinates to input into their GPS. Then those coordinates are used to locate the caches. Everybody loves to treasure hunt, and geocaching gives adventure-seekers a sense of mystery. It’s a hike with a purpose.

Water activities

Sailing

Lake Sakakawea State Park is the place to be if you are looking to play in the water.

Most people who experience a voyage on Lake Sakakawea enjoy the breathtaking scenery and the peaceful solitude. Lake Sakakawea State Park hosts the park’s full-service marina, offering everything from watercraft rentals to fishing guide services and numerous sailing regattas and fishing derbies throughout the summer. The 609-square-mile lake, combined with the North Dakota prevailing winds, make it a sailor’s delight. Plentiful fish also make it an angler’s dream. Visit www.ndparks.com and www.sailsakakawea.bigstep.com.

Boating

Nestled in the scenic Turtle Mountains on the shores of Lake Metigoshe in north-central North Dakota, Lake Metigoshe State Park is one of the most popular year-round vacation spots in North Dakota. Today, the lake is noted for its northern pike, walleye and perch. The rolling hills, aspen forests and small lakes attract nature lovers to the area. Visit www.ndparks.com.

Canoeing

North Dakota offers diverse canoeing waters rich in scenery and deep in fun. The diversified scenery varies from agricultural plains to thickly wooded slopes or gentle river bluffs. The state’s rivers offer a challenge to beginners and experienced paddlers alike. Rivers in North Dakota that are considered best for canoeing are: Sheyenne River, Little Missouri River, Pembina River, Red River and Souris (Mouse) River.

Wildlife

Birding

Where do birds go on vacation? North Dakota! With more wildlife refuges than any other state (63), North Dakota is the premier vacation place for birds and birders. Prairie potholes, birding festivals and guided tours attract feathers and friends alike.

Virtually millions of birds travel through North Dakota in the central fly zone. North Dakota is a birders’ hot spot, according to WildBird. Two rare birds nest here: Baird’s Sparrow and Sprague’s Pipit. Kidder County is on the list of Top 10 Hot Spots. Visit www.wildbirds.com.

Several birding trails throughout North Dakota feature opportunities to watch birds. The trails are designed to enhance the birdwatchers’ experience specific to the area. For example, Birding Drives Dakota developed a network of birding drives designed to encourage interest in bird watching in the Steele, Jamestown and Carrington areas – some of North Dakota’s prime birding locations. Birding trail guides are also available for the Devils Lake region including Devils Lake, Cando, Lakota, Leeds and Minnewaukan; the Missouri River; Bismarck-Mandan and Minot areas; and the Central Dakota Trail including Drake, Anamoose and Steele.

J. Clark Salyer National Wildlife Refuge is located north of Towner and is the largest refuge in North Dakota and listed on the Top 50 U.S.-Canadian birding hot spots according to WildBird. Visit www.npwrc.usgs.gov/resource/othrdata/natareas/jcsalyer.htm.

Arrowwood National Wildlife Refuge is located north of Jamestown and attracts two rare birds: Baird’s Sparrow and Sprague’s Pipit. Chase Lake National Wildlife Refuge (near Medina) has the largest breeding colony of white pelicans in North America. Lake Ilo National Wildlife Refuge near Dunn Center shows 11,000 years of continuous occupation. Lostwood National Wildlife Refuge, Kenmare, has one of the highest populations of sharp-tailed grouse in the U.S. Long Lake National Wildlife Refuge in Steele County (southeast of Bismarck) was named one of America’s top 500 Globally Important Bird Areas by the American Bird Conservancy. Sandhill cranes, whooping cranes, ducks, geese, snow buntings, snowy owls and other raptors spend time here.

Sullys Hill National Game Preserve is south of Devils Lake on the Spirit Lake Reservation. A remarkable “transition” refuge, Sullys Hill is home to large animals like bison and elk, as well as waterfowl, white-tailed deer, fox, raccoons, mink and songbirds. Here you’ll see thousands of migratory birds. Visit www.r6.fws.gov/refuges/Sullys.

Of the two national grasslands in the state, the Little Missouri National Grassland is the largest, covering much of western North Dakota and offering several scenic drives. South of Valley City, the Sheyenne National Grassland is an oasis for grouse, greater prairie chicken, tallgrass prairie, prairie orchids and unique butterflies. The North Country National Scenic Trail crosses the grassland. Visit www.fs.fed.us/r1/dakotaprairie/.

Fishing

Tony Dean, host of Tony Dean Outdoors, a nationally syndicated television show, says “There’s no finer all-around fishing and hunting in America then you’ll find within North Dakota’s borders.” There is legendary fishing for you in North Dakota, too.

If it’s catfish you’re after, expect a fight on the Red River. For Chinook salmon, action heats up in the fall on the lower end of Lake Sakakawea, a 180-mile-long man-made lake backed up behind Garrison Dam. If it’s open water and solitude you seek, you can find it in one of the many bays along the Lake Sakakawea shoreline. When the weather cools off, ice fishing heats up on Devils Lake. For jumbo perch, it’s the place to be. For high success and low competition, you’ll also want to try Lake Ashtabula, Lake Metigoshe and other local favorite lakes and rivers in virtually every corner of the state. And perhaps best of all, fishing season never ends in North Dakota. Walleye, northern pike, bass, perch all are fair game be it spring, summer, fall or winter.

The third-largest man-made lake in the United States, Lake Sakakawea was created out of the Missouri River by the Garrison Dam, the fifth-largest in the United States. The lake is an angler’s dream. The lake has 1,500 miles of shoreline, more than the state of California. The big lake is named for the American Indian woman who helped guide Lewis and Clark to the Pacific Ocean.

The Missouri River flows freely from the Montana border, just west of Williston, for many miles to the southeast until it calms down at the headwaters of Lake Sakakawea. The northwestern part of the river contains one of the better spots in the country for anglers to snag a giant paddlefish in late spring. Sauger bite well in spring and fall, northern pike inhabit many backwaters and catfish cooperate throughout the open-water season. Visit www.state.nd.us/gnf/fishing/.

At Garrison Dam, a federal fish hatchery supplies northern pike, walleye, rainbow trout and Chinook salmon for the 609-square-mile lake. Most of the shoreline is accessible to the public. Fishing licenses and guides are easily arranged. From Garrison Dam, the Missouri resumes its natural course with premiere fishing spots for more Chinook salmon, brown and rainbow trout, walleye and northern pike. Not to be overlooked are abundant supplies of crappie, catfish and white bass. Visit www.invoman.com.

On the northeast shore of Lake Sakakawea, near Garrison, is Fort Stevenson State Park, a favorite spot for anglers, campers and scenic beauty enthusiasts. A replica of the fort’s original guardhouse has been constructed in the park and it houses interpretive exhibits on the history of the fort and the Missouri River. Lake Sakakawea State Park, located on the south shore of Lake Sakakawea, offers a wide range of water-based recreational activities and facilities with an outstanding full-service marina. Lewis and Clark State Park is situated on one of the upper bays of Lake Sakakawea near Williston. The towering buttes and rolling hills sloping to the lake display a rugged backdrop to the peaceful area. The view is magnificent and primitive camping is a popular activity here. Visit www.state.nd.us/ndparks.

Once known primarily for its jumbo perch caught through the ice, Devils Lake has grown – in more ways than one. Northern pike, walleye, white bass and crappie all compete for angling attention year-round. While the 140,000-acre lake has tripled in size since 1992, fish populations have kept up with expanding water. Pike cruise in and around flooded trees. And when you find a school of white bass, these plate-sized fighters will nail your lure on almost every cast. Walleye and perch are plentiful and ice anglers still come from far and wide in quest of perch that push two pounds.

Sprawling Devils Lake is home to Grahams Island and Black Tiger Bay. The lake itself is the largest natural body of water in the state. Grahams Island is a popular camping site. Black Tiger Bay is used exclusively as a boat access area to Devils Lake. In the winter, the Perch Express takes anglers by Amtrak to the Devils Lake community where they retire into fishing houses on the ice-covered lake. Visit www.devilslakend.com.

Hunting

North Dakota contains all the ingredients for legendary hunting: thousands of potholes producing the most ducks in the nation, millions of geese along the most intensely traveled migratory paths, abundant habitat for upland game birds and large game, and seemingly endless expanses of public and private land to hunt. It’s hard to say just what it is that makes North Dakota a hunter’s paradise. The answers are likely as diverse as the species sought by hunters who take to the field each year.

To some, the perfect day begins by waiting among decoys at sunrise, a cool breeze chilling the hands, and the sight of thousands of Canada or snow geese warming the soul. To others, it’s a refreshing walk with a favorite dog among the rolling hills of western North Dakota, not knowing whether the next bird to flush will be a ring-necked pheasant, sharp-tailed grouse or Hungarian partridge. Others find satisfaction by tracking down a big mule deer buck up and down the draws or around the rims of deep, Badlands canyons, or by stalking whitetails in river bottoms and on the prairie. Whatever it is that leads you back into the fields each fall, you’ll find it in North Dakota, a place where hunting legends are made.

North Dakota Game and Fish Department manages 175-plus Wildlife Management Areas. Many of these places offer hunting and other activities. Many avid hunters come to the state to take part in hunting waterfowl, upland birds and big game wildlife. Specifically, the state is known for its geese, ducks, coots, mergansers, swan, grouse, dove, crane, pheasant, snipe, partridge, deer, pronghorn, moose, elk and bighorn sheep. Hunters and outdoors enthusiasts have a bit of paradise in North Dakota. Mule and white-tailed deer especially attract a large quantity of in- and out-of-state hunters. Visit www.state.nd.us/gnf.

Best Scenic Drives

Lewis and Clark Scenic Drives

See the scenic and historic heritage that is uniquely North Dakota. Highways 1804 and 1806 mark the historic Lewis and Clark Trail. To retrace the explorers’ path, follow either Highway 1804 or 1806 from the South Dakota and North Dakota border, north along the scenic Missouri River. Along this route, you can view On-A-Slant Indian Village, Fort Mandan, Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center, Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site and Fort Union National Historic Site. Plus, many other stops have rich culture and heritage. While on the road, watch for the natural wonder and incredible beauty that is North Dakota.

Sheyenne River Valley National Scenic Byway

This is the first North Dakota scenic drive to be designated as a national byway. It extends 63 paved miles from north of Valley City south to Lisbon on State Highway 21. This section follows a wooded river valley, passes gorgeous sunflower fields and shows off scenic farmsteads. One of the highlights of the drive is Fort Ransom State Park, located near the historic town of Fort Ransom.

Scenic Byways

North Dakota has seven other designated scenic byways and backways – all wonderful for an afternoon drive:

Ranch Vacations

Working Ranch Vacations

Whether you are interested in participating in a horseback trail ride, good old-fashioned cattle branding or listening to the coyotes howl while you sit in a hot tub, North Dakota offers ranch vacations that fit the bill. The western part of the state offers an assortment of working ranch vacations where you can work as much, or as little, as you like.

Near Amidon, the Logging Camp Ranch boasts a retreat center and hand-built cabins nestled in a ponderosa pine forest on top of Badlands buttes. Logging Camp Ranch is a working ranch with herds of cattle, bison and quarter horses. Visit www.loggingcampranch.com.

Near Medora is Dahkotah Lodge and Guest Ranch, a working ranch that offers a great family ranch vacation or a quiet, romantic getaway for two. Top off your stay with a cattle drive, pack trip, branding or a relaxing horseback ride in the Badlands. Visit www.dahkotahlodge.com.

Near Golden Valley is Knife River Ranch Vacations, an activity-oriented working ranch vacation that offers challenging opportunities year-round. Enjoy trail riding, wildlife viewing, buggy rides, hunting, canoeing and even roundups. Visit www.kniferiverranch.com.

Little Knife Outfitters is 16 miles south of Watford City (Highway 85). High adventure trail enthusiasts will find their element here. Horseback riding, canoeing, hiking, birding and unending Badlands await. Visit www.littleknifeoutfitters.com.

Winter Activities

Skiing and Snowshoeing

North Dakota has multiple cross-country ski trails designed to challenge novice and advanced skiers. Snowshoe enthusiasts are not allowed on groomed cross-country ski trails, but they can blaze their own trails through undisturbed snow. Cross Ranch, Turtle River and Lake Metigoshe State parks, as well as Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site, offer excellent cross-country skiing. Visit www.ndparks.com.

For downhill skiers, stay in top form at any of four ski resorts: Frost Fire Ski and Snowboard Area, Walhalla; Bottineau Winter Park; Huff Hills, south of Mandan; and Bears Den Mountain Ski Area, Fort Ransom.

Snowmobiling

Snowmobile North Dakota has 17 snowmobile trails that cover 3,000 miles of groomed trails and 800 miles of ungroomed trails. Avid snowmobilers travel miles to lay down the tracks on North Dakota’s uncrowded, pristine snow. Snowmobile trails open Dec. 1 if there are at least four inches of snow cover. Visit www.snowmobilend.org.

Ice fishing

Anglers will find excellent ice fishing opportunities on North Dakota’s lakes and rivers as yellow perch, northern pike and walleye bite through the winter. Ice fishing is especially popular at Devils Lake, a world-renowned perch fishery, as well as Icelandic and Lake Metigoshe State Parks, and on Lake Sakakawea and Lake Audubon. Visit www.state.nd.us/gnf.